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Asuka Twilight

Asuka is a serene place in Nara with a calming, magical atmosphere. Often in spring and fall many temples, shrines and parks around Nara have evening light-ups that gather many people.


Nara Park of course hosts a large event, but equally interesting is the light up of the ancient capital in Asuka. It is home to many historically important places such as Asuka-dera Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan, and the Takamatsuzuka tombs, just to name a few. In September I perform at the “Starry Night’s Music Festival” held amongst thousands of candles in the Historical National Government Park there. With artistic candle landscape designs and candles lining the pathways around the hills and through the forests, it really is an experience. The two years I have performed it actually was a starry night, filled with a soft wind which carried my shakuhachi sounds throughout the park.




In the shakuhachi repertoire there is an ancient piece called “Asuka Reibo”. (This is the 2nd song on the CD "Mahoroba") The term Reibo alludes to the ringing of a bell which is symbolic for attaining enlightenment. Various areas of Japan have their own distinct flavor of Reibo, which often can be a reflection of that society. An austere sound is predominant among the pieces, but, interestingly the this version is quite melodic and bright sounding, which I believe is a manifestation of the local people and culture from many generations ago which has been passed down to the present. Even within traditional shakuhachi circles it is a rarely heard piece, so for most people it was probably their first time hearing it.

I wonder if they could feel a connection to it and the people of the past. With the help of Mother Nature surrounding me, I tried to create an environment in which people were free to imagine what the meaning of the songs were or what life was like back then. Shakuhachi music affects people differently and with the right atmosphere I think it can touch a lot of people and allow them to explore, just by relaxing and letting go. Our busy lives are filled with decisions all day; this type of music allows us to “actively relax”, as I like to call it.

Standing in the middle of the historical park, surrounded by the famous rice terraces of the area, I thought about the light wind that was blowing from behind me. This was the same wind that had been blowing here for well over a thousand years. The originators of this piece, the wandering komuso monks of this area, must have stopped to contemplate the wind hundreds of years ago as well.




I took a breath and began to play my original composition called “Asuka no Yugure” (Asuka Twilight- The sixth song on the CD "Mahoroba"). From the terraced rice fields of Asuka you can see a perfect view of the Nijo Mountains, where I live at the foot of. I was walking there in the evening one day and got a perfect scene of the sun setting behind those mountains off in the distance. The beautiful twilight scene was the inspiration for this song. Seeing the sun slowly set behind the Nijo Mountains led the ancient people of Asuka to believe that Paradise lie on the other side, and when we departed this world that was direction we went. With this glowing red twilight, I felt a deep connection between Asuka and my home of Katsuragi, which I could see off in the distance.

Here is a closer shot of the Nijo Mts., which can be seen in the distance of the first picture. In early autumn this bright red flower called the "Higan-bana" blooms along the rows of rice paddies in both Asuka and the Katsuragi, Taima area. Miana is enjoying our run through the fields as well.



Sometimes when we step back and take a breath, we can see the interconnectedness of everything; different historical periods, peoples, traditions and music. It is always there, we just need to let the thousand-year-old winds blow the dust off.

Go to the Mahoroba CD
Just south of Asuka is a great place called Takatori
Read more of Josh Smith's ESSAYS






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